Within the world of serious and deliberate European fashion, Marni’s menswear line stands purposefully askew — a buoyant and colorful vessel under thoughtful direction.
“I was born on a small sailing boat,” creative director Francesco Risso explained to British GQ about his upbringing. “I lived with my father and mother for five years around the Mediterranean and the Red Sea on this boat.”
Risso’s unusual, nomadic childhood informed his worldview as a journeyman with a passion for art. After eight years designing womenswear under Miuccia Prada, Risso was tapped to replace Marni’s founding designer Consuelo Castiglioni in 2016. The Italian native brought a level of playfulness to the brand’s Milanese heritage while staying true to his left-of-center perspective.
The new era initially drew mixed receptions but Marni’s embrace of maximalist design, raw imagery and headline-grabbing mohair sweaters (Risso first gig at Prada was head of knitwear), the brand shepherded many current high fashion menswear trends into existence.
For Spring/Summer ‘21, Risso delivers a similarly heady interpretation of menswear that has been foundational to Marni’s rising stock. “The mystery of the mind’s neuro-connections,” he explained to Vogue about part of the collection’s inspiration. A handful of pieces are reinterpretations from the brand’s archives. Colorful graphics on classic camp collar and trucker jacket silhouettes wearable basics in seasonal bright pallets.